You only celebrate three decades in the biz once. On the eve of BAPE's 30th anniversary, NIGO-founded streetwear label kicked off its latest sensory-overload BAPE HEADS spectacle by bringing together all five core BAPE collections into a massive 100-look runway show.
Putting the stunning scale aside, this shindig was notable just for the fact that it's BAPE's first-ever runway presentation. You'd have thought BAPE, now owned by Hong Kong-based I.T Group, would've taken the catwalk years ago. Go figure.
Was it worth the wait? Unequivocally yes, for the legions of BAPE-obsessed fans who flooded the invite-only event. Highsnobiety got some backstage looks at the festivities prior to the main event, which capped the immense presentation with a performance from Coi Leray, certified BAPE Friend and perpetually debonair dresser.
BAPE's 30th anniversary runway also lured famous friends like Mia Khalifa and Lil Baby, who modeled one a glittery BAPE BLACK tracksuit, complete with BAPE logo necklace.
There are too many outfits to break down succinctly so let's instead distinguish the BAPE sub-labels alongside the selections they had on display.
Unless you're a real BAPE head (or BAPE HEAD, in this case), you're likely only familiar with BAPE's mononymous mainline collection, which is seemingly expansive enough to render sub-labels obselete.
The BAPE HEADS 30th anniversary show. presented the Fall/Winter 2023 collections from each label. BAPE FW23 comprises three themes: "SPORT MANIA," "COLLEGE CLASSIC," and "DENIM PAINTER," according to BAPE's press release, which are all pretty self explanatory.
Next, AAPE, a sub-label launched in 2012. This is where BAPE channels what it considers "classic" inspiration: '90s hip-hop.
Hence a plethora of puffer jackets in Versace-inspired BAPE monogram, baggy denim jeans, and crystal-encrusted BAPESTA sneakers.
Some models skated in, others clutched plush BAPE bears — AAPE's staggering selection encompassed all.
Top-tier line BAPE BLACK followed with a generous portion of outdoorsy goods. The line, which debuted in 2015, is described in BAPE's press release as "artisanal," toning down BAPE's typically vibrant palette for the sake of sophistication.
That means suits, sparkly skirts, and some seriously warped BAPESTAs.
By now, you may have noticed some stylistic overlap from line to line — seemingly every BAPE line offers puffer jackets, camouflaged hoodies, and faded denim — but that's to be expected. Every BAPE imprint offers at least a slightly different take on the inherent BAPE ideology, so similarities are a feature, not a bug.
APEE came after, toying with the Westernized gyaru subculture that, like BAPE, was born in Tokyo's buzzy Harajuku neighborhood.
Introduced in 2006 as a line for young women, APEE was relaunched in 2021 with basically the same identity.
BAPY ended the sectioned-off portion with a sampling of looks from BAPY, its higher-end womenswear line.
One of the oldest BAPE imprints — it began in 2001 — BAPY was BAPE founder NIGO's stab at European-inspired dailywear. As a result, BAPY became one of BAPE's most malleable lines and, even after it was relaunched in 2018, it remained difficult to easily pin down.
This ain't your Biggie's BAPE: BAPY FW23 includes everything from sequin suits and denim dresses to Chanel-inspired tweed jackets and hoodies studded with coffee tumbler-shaped "BAPY" applique.
Phew.
The BAPE HEADS show finally brought out over a dozen blown-up iterations of BAPE's signature SHARK hoodies, distinguished by all-over BAPE camouflage, full-zip hoodies, and military-inspired shark faces. Inflatable "wings" not included.
That's a lot of BAPE. And there's even more! BAPE HEADS merch drops July 1 on BAPE's website and its flagship stores to commemorate BAPE's 30th anniversary.
Despite the gargantuan runway show, though, BAPE's 30th anniversary feels like a more intimate affair than, say, its 25th.
Back in 2018, BAPE brought together a bunch of famous friends and debuted a bevy of collaborations, from adidas, G-SHOCK and UGG to Barbie and Swarovski.
Whereas that was all about expanding the BAPE universe, the 30th anniversary BAPE HEADS show was the opposite. It compressed all the BAPE imprints into a single sprawling selection, eschewing obvious collaborations to avoid drawing focus away from the main event: BAPE itself.
For the true BAPE heads, I can't imagine that it gets any better.
